May, 2023
While at Stanimal’s hiker hostel, the manager, Bugs, suggests I check out the Russell Museum in downtown Waynesboro while I’m here. This is not something that I have time for, or would have even planned, but I am going downtown.
After visiting the local herb and stone shop, Pyramid – which is fairly new and impressive – I cross the street and see this:
After snapping a few photos and listening to the harp and piano music coming from inside, I am drawn into this rabbit hole.
When I enter the lobby, arts of all media surround me. From a room beyond, Jeremy, my guide, calls me to “come on in” and tells me it’s an “open house” day. So I go in, just for a quick tour. Here are some of the works I was shown, with a little backstory.
The Russell Museum is part of the University of Science and Philosophy, founded in 1948 by Walter and Lao (as in Lao-tzu) Russell. It was based at Swannanoa, the estate nearby at Rockfish Gap, where Walter and Lao lived and created from 1948 until he passed in 1963. It was the Russells’ lifelong dream, and now the collection of their work is on display at this museum. USP is currently a “unique home-study university” with online and book courses, and more information can be found at philosphy.org.
“When in the flow, you’re divinely inspired.”
Jeremy, paraphrasing Walter Russell
As Jeremy walks me through the rooms, deeper into the museum, it’s overwhelming but a few works and motifs catch my attention. At the “Bubble Girl,” I stop and stare in awe as he says Walter believed in equality between men and women, reciting the quote below.
“When women become equal, it will be be women that uplift society to its amplitude. Until men and women are equal, they will step all over each other and pull each other down.”
-Walter Russell
in reference to “The Bubble Girl”
I had heard about Swannanoa and had seen the signs for it while at Rockfish Gap last year, but I didn’t see the place. The mansion sits on top of the hill on the south side of the gap, with views of the valleys to the east and west, and it shares its indigenous name with a river that flows through Asheville.
Today I learn Swannanoa was the Russells’ home, and that they chose this hilltop after a cross-country trip, considering other locations like Mount Shasta (the volcano in Northern California, where I landed after my first cross-country trip in 2010). While the USP would seem especially at home around Mt Shasta, it’s understandable that the Virginia Blue Ridge would offer the Russells a proximity to the opportunities of the east coast where he grew up, yet also in a serene mountain setting. The painting of Mt Shasta is smaller and more conventional in style, but the majestic peak is immediately recognized.
When Walter and Lao found Swannanoa, it had been abandoned for years. The original owner, James H. Dooley, a millionaire from Richmond, had the estate built in 1912 as a summer home, modeled after Villa Medici in Rome, then he and Sallie May, his wife, lived there until his death in 1922. Noting a painting here depicting Roman hillside palatial ruins, Walter likely felt an artistic connection at Swannanoa.
Here are historical photos of Swannanoa during the Russells’ residency and the USP: https://www.philosophy.org/swannanoa.html#/
The secret of creation lies in the wave.
Walter Russell, in The Secret of Light
This piece depicts the beginning and end of the wave.
In 1921, Walter had an experience of cosmic illumination, which guided his philosophical views onward through his life and to the USP. In books like The Secret of Light (the link is a review with diagrams), he described his vision of “a marriage between religion and science” and a new understanding of the nature of Light. He included many diagrams he drew, depicting waveforms and magnetism, some of which eventually became paintings shown here.
Throughout this time, music is performed by the harp-keyboard duo “The Dove and the Dragon.” Jeremy continues to show me more rooms as I am transfixed and also aware of the lost time.
The wave is in Ridge and Valley / Appalachian orogeny… To get to Charlottesville / I must crest the wave
A TOUCH OF CHARLOTTESVILLE
As I mentioned before, Rockfish Gap was the setting for an important meeting in 1818 with Thomas Jefferson and “24 other dignitaries” which led to the development of the University of Virginia at Charlottesville, east of the gap. The “Academical Village” Thomas envisioned would be centered around this round building he modeled after the Pantheon in Rome. The Rotunda, completed in 1828, is now part of a UNESCO world heritage site and near where my event gig takes place at the arena on the sprawling UVA campus.
After my event ends, I park by the Rotunda and walk across the quietly night-lit courtyard. The statue of TJ and his angels stands tall before the steps. Painted on the bricks in front of the statue is a large 7 with the letters Alpha and Omega and the infinity symbol. According to Atlas Obscura, this represents the “Seven Society” of the University.
[ Another Virginia man inspired by Italian architecture ]
Other iconic places in Charlottesville, like the Downtown Mall and the parks along the Rivanna, will wait for a future trip.
The Three Notch’d road, used in the 1700s, went through Charlottesville between Richmond and Rockfish Gap. It crossed the Rivanna river – its only river crossing – and followed the path that is now University Ave, going next to the Rotunda.
On the way back to Norfolk the following day, I descend from Rockfish Gap once again and pass the exits for Monticello, TJ’s estate. It’s Mother’s day, and I’m thinking of her; for years she has talked about wanting to visit here.
At the Saunders-Monticello trail parking lot, I stop for a breathing and journal-writing break. The lot is so full when I leave that cars are lined up, waiting to park.
This is part of the Monticello estate and the network of gentle paths leads to the mansion on the hill. This log from the tulip poplar tree that stood at the west front of the mansion (see photo below) now sits in a grassy area by the trail, and draws my attention along with a small group of kids.
You can even climb inside…
The closest restroom is at Michie Tavern and Meadow Run Mill and General Store, partway up the hill. The buildings here are all historic- Michie Tavern dates to 1784 and the grist mill, which still carries water, to 1797. In the mill/gift shop, I also buy a card with for my mom, and “put this moment…here” by the water wheel with intentions for a future visit with her. Until next time..
The Russell Museum, 518 W Main St, Waynesboro, VA 22980
Pyramid: Appalachian Magick + Remedy, 139 N Wayne Ave, Waynesboro, VA 22980
Swannanoa, 497 Swannanoa Ln, Afton, VA
The Rotunda at UVA, 1826 University Ave, Charlottesville, VA 22904
The Saunders-Monticello trail, Michie Tavern and Meadow Run Mill and General Store, 503-653 Thomas Jefferson Parkway, Charlottesville, VA 22902.
Thanks for reading and supporting my journey! -Arianna @starryarideer
arianna's creative travels 