Waynesboro, Part 2: A Walk Along the River

SHE WORE A GREEN LYCRA DRESS TO THE WAREHOUSE PARTY

The parties were funded by DuPont as it set up on a spring basin near the river. The scene had been Basic before that, it was all metal. Then came the industrial dance all-nighters and occasional death rock and harsh noise. It got huge, over several blocks. The Plant was the hottest party in town. Thousands of people came. Everyone was in rayon and spandex. Then the river got contaminated and places shut down. The Plant was soldit’s all different now.

Two fishermen in the river are taking a survey with a woman standing on the bank as I walk by. Up the hill, a local farmer’s market is going on. The greenway is active with runners, dogs walking with their humans, and kids walking with their adults. Two people sit in canoes near the bridge, possibly starting a trip down the river. It’s a weekend morning in “laid-back” Waynesboro, an industrialized town in the lovely southern Shenandoah valley.

A city map from 1891. Note the population change from 1890-1891 and also the two giant factories depicted, one on each side of the river.

As mentioned in part 1, I am exploring the downtown and riverside, using “Kaiya with Tulips” as a landmark. From the Main St Bridge, interesting historical sites, artwork, and old structures can be found walking north and south along the greenway.

“Kaiya with Tulips” on the old Ice House building is a landmark downtown, visible from the river greenway, and part of the city’s mural trail.

South of Main St, the paved path follows the bends of the South River on its west bank between two industrial complexes. The large DuPont plant (still making Lycra but now owned by Lindeman Asia, China Everbright Ltd, and other companies) was built in the spring basin in the 1920’s on the east bank and is fenced off, but for a gated metal bridge quickly being reclaimed by mother nature.

This is where plant life meets Plant life, and we’re not invited to the party.
Look, a waterfall!
(the sign says “excess well water run-off”). This is part of the DuPont/Lycra plant complex.
Looking downtown from the greenway just north of where it goes between the factories.

On the west bank next to the greenway is the Crompton-Shenandoah plant, part of which is now a commercial and studio warehouse space called South River Mill. This plant was developed over 1926-1948 and closed in the 1980s, producing chemicals used for dyeing and finishing corduroy and velveteen fabric.

This part of the Crompton Shenandoah plant is abandoned.
This was the main entrance to the Crompton-Shenandoah plant. To the left of this is the   mixed-use South River Mill.
South of the plant, an open field is available for use by Appalachian trail hikers to camp for free. My sister and I camped here in 2018 and it wasn’t a good experience.
By the Main St Bridge, there is a Fly Fishing sculpture.  The two men I saw fishing while being surveyed was close to here. Notice Kaiya in the background.

North of Main St, this is what we see.

This is the edge of the Port Republic/ Shiloh St historic neighborhood, primarily settled by Black folks after the Civil War. Some of the residents were railroad and coal yard workers, while others were employed in the mills. Shiloh Baptist Church was on the 1895 map above and still is in use.

This lot was once Gaw coal yard, at the end of Shiloh St a block from the river. (Later 1800’s, after the Civil War and railroad)

A block or so north of the church is the John Crouse House.

The Crouse house was built around 1815 with some later additions including an outdoor summer kitchen.

This section is said to be the locations of Hugh Gallagher’s mill and near the older Frederick Imboden’s mill (early 1800’s). I am excited to see mill stone ruins but they are not to be found.

Further north, the greenway continues by the river as it flows downstream. The babbling water is all I hear. Across the river are the remnants of Basic City, which developed as a steel-industry boom town in 1890 where the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad crossed the Norfolk and Western. In the map near the top of this post, one of the large smoky factories represents this area. This is probably the Basic City Mining and Manufacturing Company, who set up the town. The boom didn’t last, and by 1924, it became part of Waynesboro. This is still considered to be an economically distressed area, with vacant shopfronts and some empty lots. Currently operating here are a large laboratory “testing equipment for the US Government” and another company named “Radium, Inc.” Another large historic employer in this area of town is Virginia Metalcrafters, which operated from 1925-1996, producing hardware materials for Colonial Williamsburg. In its new incarnation, it offers a space for independent crafters and the complex also houses Basic City beer company (which has a Nils Westergard mural on its wall). I didn’t have time to stop here but it’s another interesting old factory and you can find out more on their website.

This is Commerce St in what once was Basic City, east of the river, by the Iron Cross where one rail line passes over another.

Beginning in 1979, when Mercury was found in the South River near the DuPont plant (it was used there from 1929-1950 in material processes), there has been a movement to clean up the river and beautify its banks. Thanks to years of its efforts, this little industrial city has a nice green belt with parks, public art, preserved houses, and historical signs. And apparently the trout are thriving here again.

At the farmer’s market I sampled the Shroom-tella, made by Oath to Origin, a local company that makes mushroom-infused products.

Maybe when our story’s over/
We’ll go where it’s always spring/
The band is playing our song again/
All the world is green

Tom Waits, “All the world is green”

MUSIC PLAYLIST and TOWN VIDEO TOUR LINKS

Tom Waits – All the World is Green https://youtu.be/4GIAawSTisE

Al Green – Take me to the River

https://youtu.be/k-Bjje5f1xM skinny puppy shore lined poison

https://youtu.be/QcD2jY5GYvk Vera Hall – Trouble so hard

Front line assembly virus https://youtu.be/uROAQEODEE8

Symphony of industrial horns (1922)

This is a 1-minute video driving east on Main St. in winter, 1964. Note the river and railroad bridge crossings.

Waynesboro in 1964

Here’s a more recent video tour of Waynesboro. Note the footbridge across the river, now grown over (in my photos), the plants and their smokestacks lining the river, and the brick Ice House building (now adorned with Kaiya and her tulips.

Another view of Waynesboro

Read on in Part 3 for a tour of the Russell Museum in Waynesboro, and some musings on departure of the area via Charlottesville and the roads eastward. And please support my work if you can.

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