Years have passed…life got busy, a pandemic came, and I stopped traveling for a while. For 2022, a goal of mine has been to travel again and tell stories of the land, if only to a quiet section of my current state. Little is hidden forever, and much can be recovered, including this blog.. So it goes in Southwest Virginia, where the ancient New River created a wide valley of mineral and agricultural riches, then railways and mining towns in the 1800s.
The New River, understood to be the oldest river in North America, flows northward and cuts through several mountain chains as it flows toward the Ohio. Norfolk Southern rail line followed the New river in its valley, along grassy rolling meadows and beside limestone cliffs. Minerals from coal/carbon to lead and zinc were mined in these areas and transported to cities or used to make ammunition for use in battle, by this railway, through the 1800s. Small company towns flourished along the river and rail line, then faded or depopulated as the mines closed in this area.
https://www.traillink.com/trail/new-river-trail-state-park/
We visited two town sites along the river in the Lead Mines district, Ivanhoe and Foster Falls. The rail right-of-way is now a trail and forms the spine of linear New River Trail State Park in Virginia. Former depot locations are parking areas and amenity stations, including these towns and for many others. This trail is becoming popular for bicyclists, and is also good for flat hikes, for kids or those in wheelchairs.
Foster Falls, off of I-77 by the river Bridge, is managed by the park, with its historic buildings refurbished (like the Hotel) and furnace on display. There is a campground on site, full of riverside tent sites by reservation. It’s pretty, but we chose to camp in rustic solitude at Ivanhoe Horse park a few miles to the west. Waking to dramatic riverside beauty after a spring night under a tapestry of bright stars, we explored the Horse park and neighboring Jubilee park with no other folks in sight.
Ivanhoe is an old mining town still alive with 500+ residents, but with almost no businesses in operation and many abandoned buildings. The mines in the area closed in the 1900s and gradually the community fell into economic decline. Here is a mining time-line for the Lead Mines District: https://thediggings.com/mines/usgs10088538
Understandably, the years of mining of lead polluted the groundwater and likely caused health issues for local residents. Considering my experiences visiting other company mining towns, the current water sources may still contain heavy metals and I would not recommend to drink out of them without a proper filter.
Ivanhoe’s story has been told in multiple films and a documentary, “The Curse and the Jubilee” which tells of the town’s decline post mining and interviews with local residents. The legend is that local Methodist preacher and circuit rider Bob Sheffee cursed the town in the late 1800s to ruin, and so it happened. But the people of Ivanhoe are resilient and keep going in spite of their difficult situation. In town, parked beside the McCloud store building, a man came to us and told us the film was “a joke,” that the store had been closed for at least 40 years, and directed us to the abandoned high school building.
Ivanhoe high school burned down in the 1950s, and was never rebuilt. It is not fenced and one can just walk up and enter the building. Be careful! Steps are missing and broken radiators and metal beams cross the entrances. It is not safe to enter, but a wonder to witness from the edge. Wildflowers bloom inside the old brick walls and ivy covers the outside. My girlfriend said this is one of the most amazing places she’s seen.
A 1993 film about Ivanhoe: https://scholarworks.moreheadstate.edu/appalachian_kentucky_video_archives/36/
NEW RIVER VALLEY MUSIC
The region is rich in traditional old time Appalachian music, and in summer there are folk festivals and fiddlers’ conventions, including the largest one in the valley city of Galax.
“The original “New River Train” song was claimed by the Ward family of Galax as part of their repertoire as early as 1895. The song was believed to refer to the train that ran on the New River Line in 1883 as part of the Norfolk and Western system serving the town of Fries until 1985. It was first recorded in December 1923 by Henry Whitter. It has since been recorded by a number of artists, including local residents Kelly Harrell in 1925 and E. V. “Pop” Stoneman in 1928.”
https://secondhandsongs.com/work/126037
After setting up camp for the next night near Fancy Gap (the second of our trip) we descended to Galax, the current center of commerce for the upper Valley. It was getting too dark for photos, but we visited stores including the Cherry Hill smoke and vape shop where we received great service and inspiration for the next part of our journey.
Where to stay:
-camping at Ivanhoe Horse park. Primitive camping by the river, on grassy sites with a trash can nearby. There is a bathhouse with shower on the park grounds. Free (as far as we can tell). -New River trail State park has 21 tent sites at Millrace Campground, Foster Falls (visited), and 12 tent sites at Cliffview campground near Galax (not visited). Sites cost $20/night for Virginia residents, $25 for non-residents. Reserve campsites here: https://reservevaparks.com/web/ https://reservevaparks.com/web/Facilities/SearchViewUnitAvailabity.aspx
(Part 2 is coming soon)
arianna's creative travels 
3 thoughts on “New River Valley calm, old mining towns, and a return to writing”