March 24-April 2, 2018
Finally, the central core of this cross-country trip has come — to drive with my spirit-sister Mamaluna to north Georgia so she can begin a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. On a stormy night from coastal Virginia heading southwest, we set out on a new journey, where all parts are exciting and yet also a revisit of areas explored and dreamed of years ago. She will take the trail toward Maine, and my job is to support her as her mobile resupply and hike along in some sections.
The southern terminus of the AT is at Springer Mountain, with an 8.5 mile approach trail from Amicalola falls. This iconic waterfall, about 2 hours north of Atlanta, has an AT visitor center with hiking resources for those starting out on the trail, especially at this time of year for northbound hikers.
The day before Mamaluna is to begin the trail, we attend a discussion at this visitor center, where volunteers talk about current trail issues, and necessary backcountry camping and gear essentials. She knows much of it already, but i find it helpful and motivating. We want to hike the whole approach trail together, but because i have the car it is necessary to get up to Springer separately.
In 2008, while living in Atlanta, i visited this thundering waterfall, at the end of a solo trip. Ten years later, i return here on this cool wet day to climb the hundreds of stairs and connect it with something much bigger – the AT, and sisterhood.
(“They should call these the Blue Mountains” / “they already do…the Blue Ridge”)
While the plan is to get to Springer in one day, due to our late start plus her hurt leg she needs to stop partway up and meet me with the car resupply. The forest roads up the mountain, though, are rough and hard to traverse in Esmeralda the Camry. 
Near the top of the 10-mile Winding Stair gap Rd, the Camry overheats, leading to a days-long delay in our trail progress. With help from 2 brothers camped near the Springer trailhead (and first trail magic experience) I get to the Springer shelter where my sister is camping, but the next morning gives us a 2- mile walk to the car with a 7-hour stop-start slog down the forest road to pavement, where we can get a tow truck. Several cars pass us; none offrr to help. But at the Nimblewill community church, where we wait for the tow truck, 3 groups in cars offer to get us drinks (“coke or coffee?”) with their southern hospitality.
Dahlonega, the nearest town to take the car, has a decent motel on the hillside where we stay. The next day, while waiting for the car repair, we walk around the old town square, eat Jambalaya, and see a mix of hikers and tourists out for Easter weekend. It’s a warm sunny day and at night the full moon rises brightly. Complete automotive fixes Esmeralda and in the morning Mamaluna is back up to the trail.
In this time I remember my 2003 play, Snuff Darlings from Dahlonega, set in this town as a surreal anachronism where stranded outlaw Shayla Preslee Morrison would open carry her Super-8 camera out of the Super-8 motel, laying waste to ordinary minds and greedy dying gold mines. Just a slice of American pie, a riper fruit, drawn queer from the harvest. 15 years later, no camera guns, it’s all smart phones now, and Beavers run among the spring flowers while we appreciate the calm beauty in this southern town.
As Mamaluna returns to trail, I scout camp sites further along at gap crossings, a pattern to continue in the weeks ahead. Woody Gap, where GA-60 crosses the trail, has pit toilets, picnic tables, water source, and several hidden tent pads near parking, so it’s perfect. My first night, camping sola, I meet a group of hikers and give two of them a ride down to Suches store for pizza and beer. It’s such a beautiful night as the moon rises over the bare trees around us.
The next day, Easter/April Fool’s day, i take a morning walk up to Preaching rock, a large flat rock facing southeast a mile out on the AT from the gap, where Easter sunrise service had been held a few hours earlier. I think of the Fool in the Tarot – a happy traveler walking off the edge of a cliff. Is this us, giving way to the wyrd and the path of the universe in this adventure?
Back at camp, a forest ranger tries to take a cooler of snacks (trail magic) left for hikers, saying that it is illegal trash. I stand up to him and take the cooler, handing the food to hikers and the empty cooler down to the Suches store. Meditating on the activity in this gap, I play guitar and run through a whole set of songs including the Christian folk song “Wayfaring Stranger.”
Mid-afternoon, i drive to nearby Gooch gap, park, and hike south to the lovely Justus creek camp where Mamaluna happens to be. She is with a group of fellow hikers she has met on the trail – Gild bond, and daughter Tater tot, Crunchy, and Durango.
The next day, we all hike together and camp at Woody Gap, in the same spot i set up two nights previous. Today, there is a new hiker, Overkill, camped next to me, who carries too much weight and wants a ride to the next gap, which we don’t do.
In the morning, a bus parks across the street, setting up to offer soup to hikers. When we walk over, my old friend Tobiah recognizes me. He lives and works on the farm commune in Virginia that provides these meals, and it is a good surprise to see him here of all places after all these years.
Ahead on the trail is Blood mountain, location of my deer modeling shoot from 2009, and my first return to this area since then. The memories keep coming, and this new quest is on.
Check out Mamaluna’s vlog – she tells some of the same stories but different ones too, and her lovely self is on video!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChx8tTE_d4aawwQRYHIZ3wA
arianna's creative travels 