March 14-17, 2018
From a cold blustery sunrise at Amarillo travel center and the cycle of truck stops to the forested hills of the Ozarks, i try to make it across the midsection of the land in one day. Friends in Arkansas have invited me to visit and stay, and if i get there tonight I can be safe and sleep well. But the car rattles and starts intermittently, and i can’t separate these noises from the tones of pavement patches on concrete freeway.
I. A sunset drive can be better than sex
On the western edge of Oklahoma, amid the high plains, I stop for gas at a truck stop that advertises free showers. There is an Indian restaurant and a mechanic shop at this one. It is so windy as I get out of the rattling car. Apparently the showers are for men only. Where do the women shower? No one knows.
At Elk City, there is a park where RVs camp for free by a lake, and supposedly showers too. It’s a peaceful spot and the most secluded in this area. On a warmer day this could be a great place to stay, but the wind blows cold and the showers cannot be found. 
“Golden hours” later, on the Illinois river east of Tahlequah, i enter a state of euphoria of a scenic route into the hills as the day fades. The sun reflects softly in the sandy river and behind the eroded cliffs. I visited here and swam in this river in 2011. Perhaps my brains have turned to sand. Maybe better than sex, these moments are direct gifts from the gods. (This is what i felt in Rio Shilcayo of the high jungle near Tarapoto, Perú)
Tahlequah, Oklahoma is where my spirit sister grew up, and where a friend once lived that i stayed with. It’s not the fastest way to Eureka Springs, but holds significance, a memory, and the natural beauty mentioned above, so i pass through to say “osiyo”….
II. Eureka Springs, a charming art town in the Ozarks
It’s dark when i get to the magical home of Robin and Michelle near Eureka Springs, Arkansas. I met them at the Tucson gem show where they were fellow vendors, and they set up their wagon at the weekly farmers’ market here. My friends sell knit hats and renaissance fair clothing under the name of “Outlandish Gypsy” and i join them for an early day at the market. The day turns out to be warm and springlike.
When i return to the car, it won’t start and two tires are flat. Apparently the fuel pump went out and two nails waited until i arrived here to flatten the tires. Being a busy weekend in town, the only available mechanic is in a neighboring town 25 minutes away and stressfully slammed. So with two days stuck, i take my hosts’ offer to explore the old town. From its beginnings as a mineral spring resort destination in the late 1800s to the art colonies of the modern era, my idea of the Ozarks is altered. 
Gnomes and tree spirits cut by chainsaw artists are everywhere, keeping watchful eyes on the tourist families on spring break. Victorian homes, a giant haunted hotel, and a kool short Jesus stand tall on the hilltops while historic springs trickle out of the hillsides. From certain points there are wide vistas of the valleys beyond.
Most of the chainsaw art gnomes are by local artist Stephen from the art colony, and here is a link to his YouTube channel:
Inside my friends’ house, stones sit on display and harmonium is played. Outside, a vintage REO Speedwagon is being restored for events. It’s all a laid back rural area full of creative folks and hasn’t yet been gentrified.
When the call comes that Esmeralda’s fuel pump is replaced and tires patched, it is another long road ahead to Tennessee with plenty of apprehension. Still, i am grateful it happened here and not on some lonely, windy freeway shoulder.
Music soundtrack-
More about Eureka Springs, Arkansas
— Arianna
arianna's creative travels 