Dates of travel – April 18-24, 2017
The train whips through rolling fields of red flowers on the 2 hour ride south to Barcelona, gradually filling with passengers as we approach the metro area. I sit in euphoria from the experiences of the past few days, scanning the hills for more dolmen we may pass. When I exit the train and ascend to Passaig de Gracia, the sensations of the city are immediately overwhelming. Steady streams of tourists fill the Passaig sidewalk, the Plaça Catalunya, and Las Ramblas, while taking photos of the impressive Catalan art and architecture. The mercado de la Boqueria is at full lunch hour and everything seems to happen very fast.
Back at the rail station I buy a T-10 multi-pass, as it saves several euros than buying individual tickets, and I retreat to InOut hostel in the cloud forest. This hostel sits amid the Serra de Collserola natural park and is a non-profit organization staffed mostly by disabled folks; it is also connected with the school for the developmentally disabled next door. Immediately my mind clears on the patio, surrounded by trees. The restaurant/lounge stays open late and glasses of wine are 1 euro. Complementary breakfast is complete and delicious. I will return in two days for two more nights.
Day 2
La Sagrada Familia is truly amazing. A church designed by Antoni Gaudí beginning in 1909 and unfinished, the soft point steeples, curvature, and eternal cranes are parts of its appeal and its identity. I sit in the Plaça Gaudi gazing over the reflection pond to one of the basilica’s two façades, with tourists snapping photos all around. Crowds stand in lines for a chance to get inside. It’s far too much to capture with one photo and I will stop here to reflect a few more times.
No Limit Graffiti hostel, my home for tonight and tomorrow, is close to La Sagrada Familia, though on a quieter block. It sits on the second floor, over a corner market with cheap produce. There is a communal kitchen and laundry service is available.
After the sky clears in late afternoon, I go for a walk up to fabulous Park Guell for sunset. The park, also designed by Gaudí in the modernist style, offers views over the city from the terraces and out to the sea.
Day 3
Today is sunny, cool and windy. After noon I take the train to Barrio Gotic and wander around the Call (Jewish quarter), the Roman tower and columns, and other parts of ancient Barcino. Narrow streets twist mazelike between the tall buildings. Beyond is the Port Vell and waterfront, where commercialism has slipped in. Of course there are tour groups at every turn.
On the east side of Port Vell is Barceloneta, the seaside fishing district turned beach town. At Bon Marisc restaurant, I break for paella and sweet sangria and watch the boats from the patio. A genderqueer melodica player plays circus ballad nearby, guided in a strange tragedy by Melpomene, as police stop them and make them leave. The paella is rich, with mussels, prawns, and clams. On the way back through the Barrio Gotic, I step into Basilica Santa Maria del Mar and spend a moment with a modern statue.
Day 4
At the hostel, I meet a new, friendly woman, Melissa (Ma-li-ka) from Kauai, and she is going to bike from Madrid to Greece. Hardcore she is. We have kebab lunch together and then walk to La Sagrada Familia and sit in the shady park until I have to leave for InOut hostel in the hills.
In the evening I return to Barrio Gotic and meet with Maru, a friend from the USA now living in Barcelona with her husband and 2 year old daughter. We have tapas and chat until dark.
Day 5
Today is my birthday (also Earth Day) and I spend it in solitude and nature. At my hostel, InOut, I cook squid bought in a neighborhood market and hike deep into the Serra de Collserola natural park. There are fountain springs and faraway ringing church bells. Trails intersect and wind through hollows to open countryside vistas.
Around sunset I go for another walk, this time along a creek down to the Pantá, a small dammed lake surrounded by trees. At one point two horses and their riders pass across the water, as i sit meditating on youthfulness in mind and awareness that this trip is coming to an end.
Day 6 (Feria St Jordi)
Today is the feast day of St Jordi across Catalunya. St George slayed a dragon and then roses came from the blood, so this is Catalan Valentine’s day. People and charities sell dead roses all along Las Ramblas, but as usual, the crowds are too much. The Font Santa Anna in Barrio Gotic holds much peace amid the holiday hustle, and its lovely tile artwork has seen much through the ages since its time as a community water fountain in the 1300s. 5 tiles are painted in orange, blue, and green, each depicting a blue water carrier and her urn; in the center panel over the faucet, two boyish “dancing devils” intertwine.
I spend some time with these ancient “spirits of the well” before checking in to my final hostel near here – Equity point Gothic. At the hostel, i find out that my friend Tanya from Tucson happens to also be visiting Barcelona and is available today! Melissa and i have already planned to get together again, so she, Tanya and i all meet up and walk around the Barrio Gotic on this feast day. Instead of roses we buy box wine in the Supermercat for less than 1 euro and drink it together on the street. With Tanya’s help we get into the Picasso museum for free (Sundays after 3), though it doesn’t have his most interesting pieces – mostly early portraits and sketches. Also they are strict on photos, so we get a shot of “Rooftops of Barcelona” before the attendant shouts “No photos! No water!” Oops. Glad it was free.
As the crowds fill the streets, we find 2 whole roses in the trash, and i carry them around all night. We decide to walk to the “gay Barrio” near Universitat, as the sun sets, following a group of women to Belchica beer bar. Tonight, Barcelona’s futbol club plays rival Real Madrid and the game is on here, and most every other bar. In the end, Barcelona wins and so there is more celebration in the streets. 
Around midnight we part, later than i hoped but we are all happy and it has been a great last day in the city. I end where the day began, at Font Santa Anna, feeling like the lady on the tiles, carrying her water endlessly across the land.
Day 7
Delicious green olives are found at the Mercado here in Barrio Gotic. A bag will come with me on the airplane. Today is slow and bright and there is nothing more new to do. At the Font Santa Anna i sit for one last time, with bags, roses, and little rest. As people come and go, i gaze into the eyes of the water carrier, in perfect pose…like the lady on the garden wall of the Paris cemetery…the stories she knows..
My last views in Barcelona are also the same as my first- of Gaudí’s Casa Batilo, on Passeig de Gracia, before i descend to the metro toward the airport. It’s a city with everything, maybe too touristic by now, and getting more popular. 7 days here is probably too many for a visit. We will see how the Catalan independence movements affect the high tourism. Until next time Barcelona…now to Lisbon. 
arianna's creative travels 